I selected my track bike for a couple of reasons: I wanted something that fit my riding goals and would be a solid platform; secondly, I wanted a bike that had a respectable amount of data gathering capabilities. For the purpose of my own riding development, I’ve gone with a nearly stock Triumph Daytona 765 moto2. It competes with a well-built 600 supersport in terms of power. I went with Triumph because I have a good relationship with the local dealership, I’d already had 3 other Triumph triples so I knew the platform. Also highly valuable is the fact that the Daytona shares the basic engine and a lot of parts with the 2018+ Street Triple 765 RS (which is one of my street bikes). They both use the same wheels and brake rotors so on cold days I can pull the DOT tires/wheels from the Street Triple and put them on the Daytona. Likewise, if the Daytona is being serviced, I can take the Street Triple out and it’s not too dissimilar (although the handlebars v clip-ons alone makes a very significant difference in riding experience).
AiM released an ECU profile for the 2013+ Daytona several years ago that works with both of my Triumphs so that’s another valuable consideration. With that profile, I’m able to collect throttle position, gear position, engine RPM, rear-wheel speed, and coolant temperature. I also have the necessary software and hardware to reset the service intervals. Since the 2013 and newer Daytona 675R, the bikes have come standard with high-spec Brembo brakes, Öhlins suspension, steel braided brake lines, and a lot of other bits that would be very expensive to add to most supersports. I also like the power delivery of the Triumph triples.
In terms of AiM equipment, I use the following:
- EVO4s data logger
- GS Dash mounted to the left of the fairing stay
- SmartyCam HD GP v2.2, controller mounted to the right of the fairing stay
- SD card memory module
- shift light module
- CAN expansion hub
- GPS09 GPS module mounted to the tail (best reception)
- 2000psi brake pressure sensor on the front brake line
- being added are 150mm & 75mm suspension potentiometers for the 2022 season
The bike has the following parts/protection/modifications:
- Arrow titanium slip-on from the 2013-17 Daytona
- Attack Rearsets for 2013-17 with a Woodcraft race-shift linkage (the Attack shift linkage had interference with the swingarm)
- LSL sprocket guard
- Translogic Quickshifter/blipper sensor with OEM connection (reverse wired for the Woodcraft shift linkage and race/GP shift)
- MotoXPricambi bodywork (2013+ D675/Street Triple)
- Karma modified RAM mounts in the mirror mount location for camera(s)
- Puig double bubble windscreen
- KurveyGirl titanium bolts (caliper, some others)
- Stahlbus bleeders on front master cylinder and front calipers
- KurveyGirl clips for race requirements, safety wired
- Brembo RCS17 Corsa Corta master cylinder
- TWM Remote master cylinder span adjuster
- Vesrah RJL-XX front pads
- Racetrox Gearshift Shaft Support
- Woodcraft 1″ rise clip-ons & XL bars (I drilled for the switchgear holes, removed original bar-end weights and mounts)
- Driven Halo keyless gas cap (2013+ D675/Street Triple)
- EvoTech radiator & header guards (2013+ D675)
- Stompgrip tank grips & pad (2013+ D675/Street Triple)
- R&G carbon tank sliders (2013+ D675/Street Triple)
- Western Powersports Lithium battery
- Pro-Bolt titanium drilled and magnetic drain plug
- Triumph front fork sliders (3rd gen D675)
- T-Rex magnetic rear axle sliders (2013+ D675/Street Triple)
- 3D 520 O-ring chain conversion w/ 16T front and assorted rear sprockets
- Woodcraft frame sliders (behind the fairing)
- Lightech chain adjusters (TETR002ORO)
- Woodcraft brake lever guard
- MotoHolders fairing stay (modified to fit the 2020 dash)
- Karma aluminum brackets for AiM gear
- Woodcraft engine case protection (the set spec’d for the 2013+ D675)
- SmartMoto evaporative canister elimination kit (the kit spec’d for the 2017+ Street Triple)
- AMC-Carbon swingarm protector (spec’d for the 2013+ D675)
- Spare Daytona wheels & brakes from a 3rd gen bike
- MC Tech suspension tuning w/ re-valving & re-spring
- UKRS linear rear suspension link with adjustable ride height (2013+ D675/Street Triple)
- Captive wheel spacers (f&r)
- Triumph OEM tank & fuel pump from 2013 Daytona (all the stock bodywork is wrapped up and stored)
- Bursig lift
- Motul 10w/40 300v
I just got the bike back from its annual suspension service (MC Tech, Mike Canfield), and while with Mike, he installed Woodcraft clip-on clamps with a 1″ rise which will give me some adjustability for ergonomics, better mounting of the regulator/rectifier, and AiM suspension potentiometers. Mike comes up with creative and elegant solutions and this project was no exception. Mike tracked down a special bolt for the front lower mount that replaces one of the bolts in the ABS sensor mount that has a female receiver for the stud on the front potentiometer and an EvolTech upper bracket. The front pot is a 150mm AiM unit and the rear 75mm.
Upon bringing it home, the Daytona got fresh Motul oil and Triumph filter, and new Vesrah RJL-XX front brake pads, and since the oil was out, I installed the last of the WoodCraft engine covers. I also safety wired the engine oil parts. I don’t plan to race this bike but I want to have it ready to go in case I did decide to race it so I’m slowly making the preparations when I’m service the respective area.
I’ve been working with a custom CAN programmer and between the two of us, we have been able to uncover additional channels in the CAN stream. Unfortunately it doesn’t appear to contain any brake pressure, activation, or ABS data, although it contains some other things that will be very useful: throttle map, TC mode, TC activation, throttle position at the throttle bodies AND throttle position at the hand, front and rear wheel speed, and some other mystery channels that we’ve not yet figured out (possibly fuel level, odometer/tripmeter, etc. I’m updating the list of channels that we have working correctly because some of these, namely the wheel speed, are not quite there.
Not that I use the rear brake in track riding, but I did add a rear brake pressure sensor. This is mostly because if I have a reference rider take my bike out, I want to be able to capture their use, if any, of the rear brake.
Data Acquisition Measures
Intake air temperature
Hand Throttle Position
Front-wheel speed (still refining)
Front brake pressure
Rear brake pressure
Front suspension travel
Rear suspension travel
AiM EVO4s channels:
GPS (bike position and speed)
The Daytona went off to its annual MC Tech visit a couple of months ago. After each season MC Tech refreshes the suspension and makes adjustments/changes as deemed appropriate by myself and my primary riding coach. During the course of 2022, my coach rode the Daytona a couple of times and we made some adjustments, the first being some ergonomics and then raising the front of the bike by dropping the forks a few mm through the triple clamp. One thing that my riding coach noticed in riding the Daytona was that he didn’t feel like he could use the brakes the way he wanted because of a sensation of the bike being to high in the rear (and hence part of the reason for raising the front of the bike). This was high on the list of things for MC Tech to review. Also on the list is installation of the full Bodis exhaust, a baseline dyno measurement, and a tune post-exhaust installation. Before dropping the bike off, I had a quick-release rear axle + captive rear caliper kit installed. Since I’m going through rears quite a bit faster, this seemed like a logical upgrade. That wasn’t without challenge though as the captive spacer wasn’t tall/wide enough so when the rear axle was torqued down it was pinching the top of the sprocket carrier and resulted in drag. The solution was 14mm tall (originals are 12mm) captive spacers and that mostly rectified things but MC Tech noticed that the rear brake was slightly off between the pads and the disk rotor so the most elegant solution was to grind off a couple of mm of rear brake pad. This is something I’ll have to remember if/when I change rear brake pads but since I personally don’t use the rear brake at all, at least at this point, I don’t foresee this being an issue. The kit bypasses the rear ABS circuit which doesn’t matter much to me since I pretty much never use the rear brake. I ordered up some slick little bung bolts from AF1 Racing while I was ordering Tuono parts. Mike said the clearance to the radiator hose with the Bodis headers is a bit tight but I’m sure he’ll sort that out.
Yesterday I got a call from Mike and he said that there is the option of the FKR Öhlins cartridge kit available for my forks (the stock Öhlins forks on the bike have their entry-level NIX30 kit). Short of replacing the entire fork assembly, this is the most significant upgrade. I pinged my riding coach and he said to do it so Mike is ordering them up. I asked Mike what to expect as a result of the upgraded cartridge and he said it should result in greater front-end confidence.
This will be an expensive visit to MC Tech but the bike continues to evolve and get better each year.